You don’t have to travel far for a magnificent change of scene: the `hampton Court area ticks all the boxes

BY BEN WEST

The great thing about London is that it is so large and diverse that you can immerse yourself in a completely different world again and again without leaving the capital. The area around Hampton Court, in Richmond-upon-Thames borough in southwest London, is a particularly good choice for a weekend away – and you won’t have to endure a long, gruelling journey if you’re travelling from southeast of the capital.

There’s plenty to do here, and unsurprisingly Hampton Court Palace and its beautiful grounds tops the must-see list. Beside the River Thames, one half of the huge, sprawling palace is Tudor, upgraded from a mediaeval manor by Cardinal Wolsey and then taken over by Henry VIII in 1529; the other half is Baroque, largely built by Sir Christopher Wren in the late 1600s.

You can easily spend a day exploring both the palace, its impressive art collection, and the glorious grounds, which comprise both wild and formal gardens, possibly the world’s most famous maze and a Tudor-themed children’s playground. You may be lucky enough to visit when there’s an historically accurate royal re-enactment being performed.

Exploring the palace kitchens and cellars gives you a sense of what it must have been like to run a huge royal household. The kitchens were designed to feed more than 600 people twice a day. It’s galling to see the huge difference in menus that the King and his entourage enjoyed, and the meagre diet servants endured.

Encompassing more than 1000 acres, Bushy Park is London’s second-largest Royal Park, and is located just north of the palace. It has gardens, waterways and roaming herds of red and fallow deer. The impressive birdlife includes kestrels and kingfishers, and the spectacular Diana Fountain is a centrepiece of the mile-long Chestnut Avenue designed by Wren.

Another option nearby is the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew. Rated a UNESCO World Heritage site, they contain more than 50,000 plants and include a dramatic rock garden, a peaceful Japanese garden and an interactive children’s area. Kingston is the nearest town, and has a huge array of shops, cafes and eateries.

How to get there
If you want to leave the car at home, trains leave every 30 minutes from Waterloo, and the journey takes from just 30 minutes, with a short walk over the bridge. The loveliest option during summer is to take a boat from Westminster to Hampton Court (check out Westminster Passenger Service Association’s boat service: 020 7930 2062; wpsa.co.uk) although tides can make the journey take up to four hours, so check first.

Where to stay
The Kings Arms Hotel and Six Restaurant is an ideal place to stay for discovering the Hampton Court area. This small boutique hotel has 14 recently renovated rooms, lounge, cocktail bar and terrace and an enviable location, nestled by the Lion Gate of Hampton Court Palace, overlooking its maze, and opposite Bushy Park.

It has been in existence as a pub, a hotel or an inn for longer than any other business in the area – since at least 1709, and probably longer. Rooms have homely touches like rustic plumb tiles in the bathroom and Jenny Betts London toiletries, luxuriously comfortable beds and the highest quality bed linen, all the modern comforts like refurbished shower rooms, tea and coffee making facilities plus a carefully stocked mini bar.

The restaurant, The Six – named in deference to Henry VIII’s wives – serves fabulous British cuisine. The rabbit and linguistine, for examples contrasts the delicious linguistines with crunchy cauliflower textures and gamey rabbit meat. The steaks come with the richest sauces, or you could try grilled Channel octopus, chorizo and white bean cassoulet. The puddings, such as the moorish banana creme brûlée with toasted pecans, similarly delight. Room rates include entry to Hampton Court.

Kings Arms Hotel, 2 Lion Gate, Hampton Court Road, East Molesley, KT8 9DD; 020 8016 6630; kingsarmshamptoncourt.com