On an unbusy road lined with busy hipster-style eateries and bars, this popular light and airy Thai restaurant has a modern feel, with painted reclaimed wood and a greenhouse courtyard that’s ideal on a summer’s evening.

Typically you choose four or five dishes to share, plus limitless Jasmine or sticky rice (£3). Examples include crispy noodles with yellow bean, beansprouts, pickled garlic and Chinese chives (£8), which is colourful, light and refreshing. The eastern flavours flood out of the coconut, turmeric curry with monkfish, palourde clams, grilled friggitello peppers and lotus stem (£15).

Heavenly beef – cured onglet, coriander seed and smoked chilli dip (£6) – certainly lives up to its name, whilst relish of cured Loch Duart salmon, coconut and chilli comes with a separate chunk of pork belly, a wedge of crispy smoked trout wafer and a garnish of cucumber, chickory, betel leaf and sorrel (£15). You’re supposed to blend these all together to enjoy the burst of differing flavours, but I preferred just to savour them separately.

You can tell that everything is made from scratch using really fresh ingredients, and the result is consistent sweet, sour, salty, power and zing.

The Begging Bowl (168 Bellenden Road, Peckham, SE15 4BW; 020 7635 2627; thebeggingbowl.co.uk)