Housed in the former ticket office of Peckham Rye Station, Coal Rooms’ unusual dishes include burnt hispi cabbage, doused in hot jerk dressing and combined with ground pork crackling, at a very reasonable £5.

The slow-cooked smoked lamb’s neck on the bone (£15) is  deliciously crumbly, while the ’Peckham Fatboy’ hash brown potatoes with beef dripping mayonnaise and onions (£6) are a delicious solid cake of potato. 

An egg yolk bursts from the pearl barley carbonara with bacon, parsley and parmesan (£5) while the smoked eel, lardo, gnocci and liquor (£7) is like a delicately-flavoured posh version of what you’d get in a pie ’n’ mash shop. 

Desserts include Club Tropicana, consisting of coconut ice cream, mango IPA caramel (I’ve no idea either) and burnt pineapple (£6). 

There’s a fine wine list, and the loos, bricked up since the 1930s until recently, are a striking film set-style period piece, something out of a Wes Anderson film.

Coal Rooms (11a Station Way, Peckham Rye Station, SE15 4RX; 020 7635 6699; coalroomspeckham.com)