From the outside, you’d never guess what culinary delights await at this South African-inspired restaurant (a kudu is a kind of antelope) converted from an old fast chicken joint and situated amongst an unprepossessing row of shops.

For just under a year it’s had a much coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand: since 1955, as well as its starred restaurants, the Michelin guide has also highlighted restaurants offering ‘exceptionally good food at moderate prices’ – the Bib Gourmand. Such establishments must offer menu items priced below a maximum determined by local economic standards.

Kudu is one of only four such anointed eateries in London, and since it received it bookings have shot up, so be sure to book early if you visit.

It’s easy to see why it has made such a splash, with its bold, original dishes with myriad flavours, backed up by fresh, seasonal ingredients – including some from the owners’ vegetable plot and herb garden.

The moment you step inside you’re greeted with the work of Milanese designer Alessio Nardi, a cosy feel of a 1960s lounge bar, with faded, dusky pink walls, blue velvet sofas, sections of exposed brick walls with flickering tea lights, copper-covered tables and marble counters. As well as the tables, there’s a bar area, and the most friendly, attentive staff adding to the welcoming vibe.

There’s a range of house cocktails (£7). I tried the Elderbei, featuring in-season elderberries, a delicious deep red concoction with a pink froth. My companion sampled the Smokey Kudu, a strong, whisky-based drink. A quite theatrical one too, as it is presented in a little bottle, smoking.

We ordered the Kudu bread for two (£9.50), in two versions: with melted bacon butter and parsely, and with melted seafood butter and baby shrimps. I thought this would be a serving of plain breads with a couple of little dips on the side, but we were presented with two traditional cast-iron skillets, having been cooked over open flames, the way it’s done in South Africa. I’ve never had such posh, ornate bread in my life.

The bread wasn’t any old wholemeal from the local Tesco, as you might get at some establishments. Instead we were given mosbolletjies, a tender puffy Afrikaner loaf, similar to a brioche. We dipped the bread in these skillets, oozing with delicious flavours, mopping up chunks of bacon lardons, almond flakes and shrimp.

Presentation of food makes such a difference to its enjoyment and the starters (on the menu they were called ‘snacks’) were displayed exquisitely: a creamy chicken liver parfait with a leaf ash cracker (£7.00), and Maldon rock oysters with a champagne veloute (£5.50) presented on a bed of rock salt, with specks of delicious deep green oil.

We then tried a couple of the small plates on offer: mussel potjie pot with courgettes, basil and jersey royals (£8.50). The potjie (which simply means ‘little cauldron’) contained juicy mussels in a tangy sauce of coconut milk and seaweed-flecked gnocchi.

There was also a duck and pork terrine with biltong scratchings and gribiche (£8.50), which was salty, crunchy and meaty.

As a main course I tried the confit of duck, maitake, salsify, minestra nera (£13.00). It was cooked to perfection, with the tenderest duck.

For a pudding I tried the spiced pumpkin tart with miso, charcoal ice cream and salted caramel (£7.00), which just melts in the mouth. Another option was a rich chocolate mousse with mint ice cream (£7.00).

We chose the staff-selected wine prominently displayed on the menu, Babylonstoren Nebukadnesar 2016, a full-bodied, fruity organic red from a small Cape Town winery. It was delicious – and so it should be, at £55.00, although the wine selection at Kudu starts from a more modest £20.00 a bottle.

There are times every week the stresses of London make me question why I live here, but when you have restaurants like this on your doorstep I can see why I endure the daily commute, fighting for that one parking space and all the rest.

Kudu Restaurant (119 Queen’s Road, Peckham SE15 2EZ; 020 3950 0226; kudu-restaurant.com)