Levan, which opened in November 2018 replacing popular Peckham stalwart fixture The Refreshment Rooms, immediately established a devoted following. When I visited, the swish European bistro was buzzing and full, with its vinyl funk collection ramping up the lively atmosphere. 

With an open kitchen and cosy midnight blue walls, you can sample delicious dishes such as baked onions with bleu d’Auvergne and walnuts (£8.50), a vacherin, wild mushroom and potato pie (£14.50), and house-cured sardines soaked in rosemary and olive oil (£7.50). 

The Compte fries with saffron aioli (£6.50) were delicious, and made with chickpea flour, but the friendly waitress wouldn’t divulge any more of the clearly delicious ingredients. A sharing plate of mussels (£10.50) cooked with leeks and nduja (spicy salami) was complemented well by a tasty dish of roast cauliflower, kale, Parmesan and truffle (£12.50).

Although the dessert selection was small, it was no less tasty and included a moorish apple tarte tatin with creme fraiche (£6.50) and a dark chocolate mousse with malt ice cream (£6.50).

Coupled with an excellent wine menu and well-chosen digestifs, Levan is definitely one of south London’s culinary highlights.

Levan (12-16 Blenheim Grove, Peckham, SE15 4QL;  020 7732 2256; levanlondon.co.uk)