Billing itself ‘Peckham’s Taiwanese restaurant’, Mr Bao is clearly very popular and established, considering that it was completely packed, with people queuing the Wednesday night we visited.

This cosy little eaterie (it has around 35 seats) just a five minute walk from Peckham Rye Overground station has stripped back decor, wooden tables and a very relaxed vibe, enhanced by its enthusiastic and friendly staff.

Dishes are small and tapas-style, so most people order two to three buns per person and a couple of sides as well.

The menu is small – but tasty and cheap – with some sharing plates such as sesame spinach (£2.00), ginger and garlic edame (£3.30), pork dumplings (£3.90) and sweet potato chips with wasabi mayo (£3.10).

There are six baos on offer (baos are Chinese steamed bread rolls with a filling of meat or vegetables), including slow-cooked beef brisket with fresh jalapenos, wasabi and pickled cucumber (£4.50), ginger braised tofu with kimchi and crispy onions (£4.60) and bao diddley chicken, with 24-hour marinated chicken, wasabi mayo, kimchi and coriander (£4.50).

Every dish was a lively and spicy mishmash of unusual pan-Asian flavours, using fresh ingredients. All vegetarian dishes can be made vegan, and the restaurant is very accommodating for those with dietary needs.

Mr Bao offers a selection of cocktails (£7.50). I tried a divine lychee daiquiri, with white rum, lychee liqueur and lime, while my companion opted for a plum wine negroni, containing barrel-aged gin, Campari, plum wine and chocolate bitters, which was potent enough to start an Airbus.

Mr Bao (293 Rye Lane, Peckham SE15 4UA; 020 7635 0325; mrbao.co.uk)